Chevron Hat

Gather your supplies:

• US size 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide
• Yarn needle
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in at least 2 colors. The basic hat pictured was knitted with Knit Picks Brava Worsted in Tranquil and Mint. The multi-color hat pictured was knitted with Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Taupe, Dusty Rose, and Pearl Mist and Knit Picks Brava Worsted in Alfalfa, Denim, and Freesia.

Gauge and sizing:

• My gauge on this project is 5 stitches per inch
• Finished hat measured flat: 10″ wide, 8″ tall
• This hat fits most adult heads. My foam model has a head circumference of 22″, but I’ve found that this design fits comfortably on heads up to 24″. You can easily make your hat larger or smaller by adding or subtracting chart pattern repeats. For example: the chart is worked over 6 stitches, so simply add stitches in multiples of 6 for a larger hat, or subtract stitches in multiples of 6 for a smaller hat. Just remember to adjust your crown decreasing math accordingly.

Abbreviations used:

• K: knit
• K1P1: knit one stitch, purl one stitch
• K2tg: knit two stitches together

For basic chevron hat, start here:

• Cast on 102 stitches using long tail method, with one color yarn around thumb and a different color yarn around forefinger to create two-tone brim as pictured
• Place stitch marker to mark beginning of round, join to K in the round
• K1P1 for 4 rounds
• Begin colorwork chart. Remember to work from right to left, repeating columns 1-6 until the end of each row.
• Repeat entire chart 5 times, then just first three rows once. You will have worked a total of 33 rows in chevron colorwork. You are now ready to begin decreasing!

Crown Decreasing

The decreasing on this hat is worked over just 11 rows, creating a rippling effect which I think works great with the chevron design. Begin decreasing immediately after finishing colorwork, and switch to DPNs when stitches become too tight on circular needles.

1. K4, K2tg; repeat to end of round (85 stitches remaining)
2. K all stitches to end of round
3. K3, K2tg; repeat to end of round (68 stitches remaining)
4. K all stitches to end of round
5. K2, K2tg; repeat to end of round (51 stitches remaining)
6. K all stitches to end of round
7. K1, K2tg; repeat to end of round (34 stitches remaining)
8. K all stitches to end of round
9. K2tg; repeat to end of round (17 stitches remaining)
10. K all stitches to end of round
11. K2tg four times; K 1; K2tg four times (9 stitches remaining)

Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends, block if desired.

Customize it!

Want more than just two colors? Use this chart as a model to plan your own color palette. You will be dropping one color and adding another every three rows, so you’re really only limited by how many ends you feel like weaving in when you’re finished!
This chart should be worked the same as the one above, for a total of 33 rows in chevron colorwork before moving on to decreasing the crown.
click to expand

click to expand

Add a motif!

If you want to customize your chevron hat even more, why not throw in a motif? Use the chart featuring a cute repeating heart design to knit the hat pictured here, or use the chart with the blank rows 13-20 to create your own motif.
Experiment with different colors and motifs to create custom chevron hats for all of your friends and family!

Double Knitting Demystified

• measured flat: 10.5″ wide, 9.5″ tall
• This hat stretches to fit most adult heads. For reference, my foam model has a head circumference of 22″.

Double knitting tips:

• When double knitting, you will be working with two yarns at all times. There are many methods for doing this, including holding one yarn in each hand, or holding both yarns the way you normally do (continental or English). Personally, I use a yarn guide on my left index finger for continental knitting and purling. This keeps the yarn from getting tangled and makes it easier to move between knitting and purling.
• Always move BOTH yarns to the front or back of your needles AT THE SAME TIME even though you will only be using one yarn to knit or purl. For example, move both yarns to back BEFORE knitting a stitch with one color; move both yarns to front BEFORE purling a stitch with the other color. This is what ensures that you are knitting two stockinette “right sides” and not just 1×1 ribbing.

Begin here:

• With A and circular needles, cast on 160 stitches (that’s 80 stitches for each side), place marker.
• Making sure stitches are not twisted, join for knitting in the round by knitting the first stitch.
• Now you’re ready to incorporate your second color! With both A and B to the front of your work, purl next stitch with B.
• Move both yarns to the back of your needles, knit the next stitch with A.
• Move both yarns to the front of your needles, purl the next stitch with B.

Repeat the previous two steps to end of round and for 35 additional rounds, for a total of 36 rounds of stockinette.
Decreasing:
(switch to using DPNS when stitches become too tight on circulars)

crown of main color; decreases are knit together

• Continue alternating knitting and purling for 16 stitches (8 knits and 8 purls).
• To begin decreasing, you must first rearrange stitches as you come to them so you can knit stitches together for one side of the hat and purl stitches together for the other. To do this, insert right needle purlwise into next three stitches to transfer them to right needle. Slip the third stitch (this should be a knit stitch) off the right needle so you can transfer the second stitch (this should be a purl stitch) from the right needle back to the left needle. Now pick the third stitch back up with right needle and transfer it back to the left needle along with the first stitch. You should now have two knit stitches followed by two purl stitches on your left needle.
• Knit the two knit stitches together; purl the two purl stitches together.
• *Continue alternating knitting and purling for 16 stitches (8 knits and 8 purls); rearrange next three stitches as instructed above; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (144 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 14 stitches (7 knits and 7 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (128 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 12 stitches (6 knits and 6 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (112 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 10 stitches (5 knits and 5 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (96 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 8 stitches (4 knits and 4 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (80 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches

  

  crown of second color; decreases are purled together

• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 6 stitches (3 knits and 3 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (64 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *alternate knitting and purling for 4 stitches (2 knits and 2 purls); rearrange next three stitches; knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (48 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *knit one stitch, purl one stitch; rearrange next three stitches, knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* Repeat from * to * until end of round (32 stitches remain)
• next round: alternate knitting and purling all stitches
• next round: *rearrange next three stitches, knit two knit stitches together and purl two purl stitches together* repeat from * to * until end of round (16 stitches remain)

Finishing:

• Cut both yarns and separate remaining knit stitches onto one needle and the purl stitches onto another.
• Use a yarn needle to thread tail of B through remaining purl stitches and pull tightly to close. Thread through stitches once again to secure.
• Use a yarn needle to thread tail of A through remaining knit stitches and pull tightly to close. Thread through stitches once again to secure.
• Use your yarn needle to tuck ends into the space between layers of fabric. You’re done!

The Heartskull Hat

You will need:

Isn’t this sparkly yarn awesome?!

• US size 7 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 7 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Light worsted or DK weight yarn of your choice in at least 2 colors. The adult hat pictured was knitted with Red Heart Shimmer Yarn in Hot Pink, Black, and Ivory. The toddler hat pictured was knitted with KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Worsted Yarn in Cobblestone Heather, Frozen, and Teacup (sadly, I think these last two colors have been discontinued, but Dove Heather and Blossom Heather would be good substitutes).

Gauge and sizing:

• My gauge on both hats is 22 stitches in 4″,  or 5.5 stitches per inch.
• Finished adult hat measured flat: 10″ wide, 8″ tall.
• Finished toddler hat measured flat: 8.5″ wide, 6.5″ tall.
• Adult hat will fit most adult heads. My foam model has a head circumference of 22″, but I’ve found that this design fits comfortably on heads up to 24″. You can make your hat smaller by going down a needle size or two and perhaps switching to a different weight of yarn (for example: using sport or DK weight yarn with US size 5-6 needles) or larger by going up a needle size and using worsted weight yarn. You can also knit fewer rows of ribbing for the brim to get a shorter hat, or more rows for a longer hat.
• Toddler hat will fit a 16″-18″ head circumference, which covers the 6 months to toddler age range. I didn’t have a real life kiddo handy when I was taking pictures, so I used Lisa, my favorite doll from childhood. She is an accurate representation of a 6 month-old baby, for reference. It’s a wee bit large on her, but of course, real babies will grow into it.

Pattern notes:

Keep your floats nice and short!

• When instructions differ for size, toddler size is written first followed by adult size in parentheses.
• When working from a colorwork chart while knitting in the round, always read the chart from right to left for each round.
• Avoid long floats by “catching” the yarn when knitting more than 5 stitches in the same color. I try to minimize the need for it when I’m designing, so there are only 4 rounds out of 18 where catching floats is necessary in this pattern.

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• k: knit
• k1p1: knit one stitch, purl one stitch
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. co 90 (108) sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd
2. k1p1 for 6 rnds (k2p2 for 13 rnds)
3. With mc, k 1 rnd (k 2 rnds)
4. Join cc to begin colorwork; repeat chart 5 times (6 times) each rnd until complete

Toddler hat decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. With mc, k 1 rnd
2. k8, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (81 sts remain)
3. k to end of rnd
4. k7, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (72 sts remain)
5. k to end of rnd
6. k6, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (63 sts remain)
7. k to end of rnd
8. k5, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (54 sts remain)
9. k to end of rnd
10. k4, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (45 sts remain)
11. k to end of rnd
12. k3, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (36 sts remain)
13. k to end of rnd
14. k2, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (27 sts remain)
15. k to end of rnd
16. k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (18 sts remain)
17. k to end of rnd
18. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (9 sts remain). Scroll to finishing section to continue.

Adult hat decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. With mc, k 2 rnds
2. k10, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (99 sts remain)
3. k to end of rnd
4. k9, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (90 sts remain)
5. k to end of rnd
6. k8, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (81 sts remain)
7. k to end of rnd
8. k7, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (72 sts remain)
9. k to end of rnd
10. k6, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (63 sts remain)
11. k to end of rnd
12. k5, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (54 sts remain)
13. k to end of rnd
14. k4, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (45 sts remain)
15. k to end of rnd
16. k3, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (36 sts remain)
17. k to end of rnd
18. k2, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (27 sts remain)
19. k to end of rnd
20. k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (18 sts remain)
21. k to end of rnd
22. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (9 sts remain)

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 9 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

Fuck Cancer Hat

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in at least 2 colors. The hat pictured was knitted with Knit Picks Brava Worsted in Black and Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Pink. If knitting for chemo patients, remember to use the softest yarn you can!

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches in 4″,  or 4.5 stitches per inch.
• Finished hat measured flat: 10″ wide, 9″ tall with brim unfolded or 7″ folded.
• Hat will fit most adult heads, 21-23″.

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• p2k2: purl two stitches, knit two stitches
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With cc and size US size 7 circular needles, loosely co 96 sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k2p2 for 11 rnds.
3. p2k2 for 10 rnds (this step is so the brim folds easily and neatly).
4. Switch to US size 8 circular needles and with mc, k 2 rnds.
5. Begin colorwork. For all 12 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 25-30 six times, then columns 1-24 once, and finally columns 25-30 six more times. The chart is worked this way to ensure the beginning of each round falls at the back of the hat.

***always work chart from right to left when knitting in-the-round***

Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. With mc, k 8 rnds (or more if you want a longer hat)
2. k6, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (84 sts remain)
3. k to end of rnd
4. k5, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (72 sts remain)
5. k to end of rnd
6. k4, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (60 sts remain)
7. k to end of rnd
8. k3, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (48 sts remain)
9. k to end of rnd
10. k2, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (36 sts remain)
11. k to end of rnd
12. k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (24 sts remain)
13. k to end of rnd
14. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (12 sts remain)
15. k to end of rnd
16. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (6 sts remain)

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 6 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

A Crown of Moons and Stars

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in 2 colors. I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Frozen (silver/light grey) and Stitch Nation Alpaca Love in Cobblestone (dark grey).

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches and 24 rows in 4″ (4.5 stitches per inch)
• Finished headband measured flat: 11″ wide, 5″ tall
• Will comfortably fit most adult heads, 21-23″.

Abbreviations used:

• bo: bind off
• co: cast on
• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With mc and size US size 7 circular needles, co 96 sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k2p2 for 4 rnds.
3. Switch to US size 8 circular needles, k 1 rnd.
4. Join cc to begin colorwork. For all 15 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-24 four times.

***always work chart from right to left when knitting in-the-round***

Finishing:

• After chart is complete, switch to size 7 needles to k 1 rnd with mc (this is to make the transition from stockinette stitch to ribbing tighter and more defined).
• k2p2 for 3 rnds.
• Loosely bo in pattern (ie: knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you come to them while binding off).

The Hella Gay Hat

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in 6 rainbow colors and black. The hat pictured was knitted with small amounts of various acrylic yarns from my stash.

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches in 4″,  or 4.5 stitches per inch
• S/M size will fit 19-21″ adult head
• L/XL size will fit 22-24″ adult head
• Where instructions differ between sizes in the pattern, the S/M size is listed first with L/XL following in quotations.

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• k: knit
• k1p1: knit one stitch, purl one stitch
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With mc and smaller circular needles, co 90 (96) sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k1p1 (k2p2) for 4 rnds.
3. Switch to larger circular needles, k 1 rnd.
4. Begin colorwork.

***charts are worked from right to left and bottom to top***

Flag version:
For all 19 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-2 sixteen (eighteen) times, then columns 3-28 once, and finally columns 1-2 sixteen (seventeen) more times. The chart is worked this way to ensure the beginning of each round falls at the back of the hat.

Hearts version:
For all 19 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-6 six times, then columns 7-30 once, and finally columns 1-6 five (six) more times. The chart is worked this way to ensure the beginning of each round falls at the back of the hat.

Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. With mc, k 1 rnd (or more if you want a longer hat)
2. k8 (k10), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 81 (88) sts remain
3. k to end of rnd
4. k7 (k9), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 72 (80) sts remain
5. k to end of rnd
6. k6 (k8), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 63 (72) sts remain
7. k to end of rnd
8. k5 (k7), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 54 (64) sts remain
9. k to end of rnd
10. k4 (k6), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 45 (56) sts remain
11. k to end of rnd
12. k3 (k5), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 36 (48) sts remain
13. k to end of rnd
14. k2 (k4), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 27 (40) sts remain
15. k to end of rnd
16. k1 (k3), k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 18 (32) sts remain
17. k to end of rnd

S/M only:

• k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 9 sts remain

L/XL only:

• k2, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 24 sts remain
• k to end of rnd
• k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 16 sts remain
• k to end of rnd
• k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 8 sts remain

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 9 (8) stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

The Misfit Christmas Hat

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch markers
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in 2 colors. Hat pictured was made with Red Heart Soft in Teal and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Pearl Mist.

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches in 4″,  or 4.5 stitches per inch
• Designed for a slouchy fit on most adult heads (21-24″)

Abbreviations used:

• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• co: cast on
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With mc and smaller circular needles, co 96 sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k2p2 for 6 rnds.
3. Switch to larger circular needles, k 2 rnds.
4. Join cc to begin colorwork.

***chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top***

For all 17 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-12 three times, then columns 13-39 once, then columns 40-51 twice, and finally columns 40-48 once. You may find it helps to use stitch markers to separate these sections.
Once colorwork is complete, cut cc. Continue knitting with mc until work measures 8 inches, then begin decreasing.

back of hat

Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. k10, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 88 sts remain
2. k to end of rnd
3. k9, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 80 sts remain
4. k to end of rnd
5. k8, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 72 sts remain
6. k to end of rnd
7. k7, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 64 sts remain
8. k to end of rnd
9. k6, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 56 sts remain
10. k to end of rnd
11. k5, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 48 sts remain
12. k to end of rnd
13. k4, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 40 sts remain
14. k to end of rnd
15. k3, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 32 sts remain
16. k to end of rnd
17. k2, kt2g; repeat to end of rnd – 24 sts remain
18. k to end of rnd
19. k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 16 sts remain
20. k to end of rnd
21. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 8 sts remain

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 8 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

The Heart Beanie

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice (I recommend wool blends) in two colors. The hat pictured was made with Lion Brand Wool Ease Worsted yarn in Gold and Eggplant.

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches in 4″,  or 4.5 stitches per inch
• S/M size will fit 19-21″ adult head
• L/XL size will fit 22-24″ adult head
• Where instructions differ between sizes in the pattern, the S/M size is listed first with L/XL following in quotations.

Abbreviations used:

• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• co: cast on
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With mc and smaller circular needles, co 88 (100) sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k2p2 until work measures 4″.
3. Switch to larger circular needles, k 1 rnd and for S/M size only, increase 2 stitches evenly around (for a total of 90 sts). For L/XL size, just k 1 rnd.
4. For both sizes, k 1 more rnd.
5. Join cc to begin colorwork. For all 16 rnds of the chart, repeat columns 1-10 nine (ten) times. Remember to “catch” your floats if using one color for more than 5 sts at a time.

***chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top***

When colorwork is complete, k 1(3) rnd(s). Now you’re ready to decrease!
Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. k8, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 81 (90) sts remain
2. k to end of rnd
3. k7, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 72 (80) sts remain
4. k to end of rnd
5. k6, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 63 (70) sts remain
6. k to end of rnd
7. k5, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 54 (60) sts remain
8. k to end of rnd
9. k4, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 45 (50) sts remain
10. k to end of rnd
11. k3, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 36 (40) sts remain
12. k to end of rnd
13. k2, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 27 (30) sts remain
14. k to end of rnd
15. k1, k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 18 (20) sts remain
16. k to end of rnd
17. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd – 9 (10) sts remain

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 9 (10) stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

The Beer Sock

For the beer sock, I did magic loop with US size 6 needles, but you could use DPNs if you prefer. Gauge is not super important due to the stretchy ribbing, but make sure your ribbing is tight–open and airy is NOT okay for this project!

• Cast on 36 stitches and join to knit in-the-round, being careful not to twist your stitches.
• K2P2 for 7 inches
• Begin bottom decreasing: *knit 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches together*; repeat from * to * to end of round (30 stitches remain)
• Knit 1 round
• *knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches together*; repeat to end of round (24 stitches remain)
• Knit 1 round
• *knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches together*; repeat to end of round (18 stitches remain)
• Knit 1 round
• *knit 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches together*; repeat to end of round (12 stitches remain)
• Knit 1 round
• *knit 2 stitches together*; repeat to end of round (6 stitches remain)
• Cut yarn and and use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 6 stitches and cinch bottom closed. Weave in ends, and you’re done!

Odd but important note: because of the tight ribbing, the beer sock looks kinda…phallic…when it’s not holding a beer, which could make for a very awkward gift-giving experience! Avoid this by simply giving your beer sock to its recipient on his favorite beer so there’s no mistaking what it actually is!

Santa Skulls Hat

You will need:

• US sizes 7 and 8 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 8 DPNs
• Stitch markers
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn. Hat pictured was made with Red Heart Super Saver yarn in Black (A) with small amounts of Aran (B), White (C), and Cherry Red (D).

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 18 stitches in 4″,  or 4.5 stitches per inch
• Will fit most adult heads (21-24″)

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. With A and smaller circular needles, co 96 sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
2. k2p2 for 6 rnds.
3. Switch to larger circular needles, k 2 rnds.
4. Join B to begin colorwork. Join C and D as they are called for in the chart.

Please note: row 18 of the chart uses three colors instead of the usual two. If you would prefer not to do that, you can knit the row using just red and black and use duplicate stitch to add the white later.

*Chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top!*

For all 19 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-8 twelve times.
Once colorwork is complete, continue knitting with A until work measures 8 inches, then begin decreasing.
Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (48 sts remain)
2. k to end of rnd
3. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (24 sts remain)
4. k to end of rnd
5. k2tg; repeat to end of rnd (12 sts remain)

Finishing:
Cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 12 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Block and add pompom if desired.

Sweethearts Coffee Cup Sleeve

Materials:

• Long circular needles for magic loop method (or DPNs if you prefer), US size 7 or whatever size you need to obtain gauge
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Worsted weight yarn of your choice in 2 colors. Sleeve pictured was knitted with Red Heart Super Saver in Cherry Red (A) and Aran (B)

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 20 stitches in 4″,  or 5 stitches per inch. Gauge is important to ensure a sleeve that fits properly so you and your sweetheart can hold your coffee safely!
• Finished sleeve measured flat is 4″ tall, 4″ wide at the bottom, and 5″ wide at the top. Will fit most paper or Styrofoam coffee cups.

Abbreviations used:

• bo: bind off
• co: cast on
• k: knit
• k1p1: knit one stitch, purl one stitch
• kfb: knit in the front and back of a stitch
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

• With A, co 46 sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd if desired; join to k in the rnd making sure sts are not twisted.
• k1p1 for 6 rnds.
• next rnd: kfb, k 22 sts (or until end of needle if doing magic loop); kfb, k to end of rnd. You should now have 48 sts.
• Join B to begin colorwork. For all 11 rounds of the chart, repeat columns 1-6 eight times.

*Chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top!*

• When colorwork is complete, cut B.
• Next rnd: with A, kfb, k 23 sts (or until end of needle if doing magic loop); kfb, k to end of rnd. You should now have 50 sts.
• k1p1 for 6 rnds.
• bo in pattern LOOSELY. Weave in ends and block on a coffee cup if desired.

Heart-Eyed Skulls Hat

When I posted a couple in-progress shots of this hat on Instagram and Tumblr, I was so tickled with all the attention they got! Apparently many of you love heart-eyed skulls just as much as I do! I am very happy to finally be able to share this pattern with you.

This hat is particularly special to me since it is the first accessory I’ve designed and knitted using fingering weight yarn. Most of my patterns are made using worsted weight yarn because it’s readily available in most craft stores and honestly, worsted weight yarn is my knitting and crochet comfort zone! I’ve worked with small amounts of fingering yarn in the past, but the idea of knitting an entire project with such thin yarn and tiny needles was very daunting to me. But I got the hang of it pretty quickly, and you will too. Let’s get started!

You will need:

• US size 3 circular needles, 16″ (or whatever size you need to get gauge)
• Set of US size 3 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Fingering weight yarn in your choice of two colors. The hat pictured was knitted with KnitPicks Palette Yarn in Black and Seraphim.

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 26 stitches in 4 inches, or 6.5 stitches per inch.
• Pattern includes two sizes, S/M (20″ circumference) and M/L (22″ circumference).

Pattern notes:

• When instructions differ for size, S/M is written first followed by M/L in parentheses.
• Avoid long floats by “catching” the yarn when knitting more than an inch’s worth of stitches (6 or 7 in this case) in the same color.

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. Using cc and circular needles, co 132 (144) sts using your preferred method; place stitch marker to mark beginning of rnd; join to k in the rnd.
2. k2p2 to end of rnd; repeat until work measures one inch, which for me was 10 rnds.
3. Join mc, k 2 rnds.
4. Begin colorwork; repeat chart 11 (12) times per rnd until all 38 rows of chart have been worked.

***chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top***

Decreasing: 

When colorwork is complete cut cc and k 4 rnds with mc, then decrease as follows:

(switch to DPNs when sts become too tight on circular needles)

• *k 10 sts, k2tg*; repeat from * to * to end of rnd — 121 (132) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 9 sts, k2tg* — 110 (120) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 8 sts, k2tg* — 99 (108) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 7 sts, k2tg* — 88 (96) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 6 sts, k2tg* — 77 (84) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 5 sts, k2tg* — 66 (72) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 4 sts, k2tg* — 55 (60) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 3 sts, k2tg* — 44 (48) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 2 sts, k2tg* — 33 (36) sts remain
• next rnd: *k 1 st, k2tg* — 22 (24) sts remain
• next rnd: *k2tg* — 11 (12) sts remain

To finish: cut yarn, leaving at least an 8 inch tail, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 11 (12) stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends and block if desired.

Celestial Fair Isle Hat

You will need:

• US size 6 circular needles, 16″
• Set of US size 6 DPNs
• Stitch marker
• Yarn guide (optional, but super helpful for colorwork knitting)
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Light worsted or DK weight yarn of your choice. The hat pictured was knitted with KnitPicks Wool of the Andes Worsted Yarn in Cobblestone Heather, Cloud, Frozen, and Teacup (sadly, I think these last two colors have been discontinued, but Dove Heather and Blossom Heather would be good substitutes).

Gauge and sizing:

• Gauge is 24 stitches in 4″,  or 6 stitches per inch.
• Finished hat measured flat: 10″ wide, 9″ tall.
• Hat will fit most teen/adult heads (20″-22″).

Pattern notes:

• The last, upper-most section of the colorwork chart below is different than what appears in the hat pictured. When I knitted the hat over a year ago, I used a different design than the one I think looks better now. I will still include that chart for anyone who wants to use it, but I will be using the new, updated chart in the scarf mentioned above.

Abbreviations used:

• co: cast on
• cc: contrasting color (design color)
• k: knit
• k2p2: knit two stitches, purl two stitches
• k2tg: knit two stitches together
• mc: main color (background color)
• rnd(s): round(s)
• st(s): stitch(es)

Start here:

1. co 120 sts using long tail method, with one color yarn around thumb and a different color yarn around forefinger to create two-tone brim as pictured.
2. With mc, k2p2 for 4 rnds.
3. Join cc to begin colorwork. For all 56 rnds of the chart, repeat columns 1-24 five times.

***chart is worked from right to left and bottom to top***

Original last chart is pictured below. It replaces rows 48-56 in the chart above and is repeated twelve times per round.

When colorwork is complete, k 2 rnds with mc. Now you’re ready to decrease!
Decreasing: 
(switch to dpns when sts become too tight on circular needles)

1. With mc, k2tg to end of rnd (60 sts remain).
2. next rnd: k to end of rnd.
3. next rnd: k2tg to end of rnd (30 sts remain).
4. next rnd: k to end of rnd.
5. next rnd: k2tg to end of rnd (15 sts remain).
6. To finish: cut yarn, use yarn needle to thread tail through remaining 15 stitches and pull tightly to close. Weave in ends. Use Cloud color to add pompom and block if desired.

A Reversible Cowl Recipe

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  • Using a crochet chain provisional cast on with waste yarn and whichever of your two balls has less yardage (which for me was the Chroma), cast on 100 stitches to 24″ US size 8 circular needles; join to knit in-the-round

  • knit until the first ball is almost all used up. From here, you can join the second ball at the start of the next round, or you can do what I did and wet splice the beginning of the new yarn to the tail end of the old yarn and just keep knitting. The results look similar, but there are no ends to weave in with the splicing option. Also keep in mind that you can only wet splice natural animal fiber yarn, so this is not an option if you’re using acrylic or cotton.
  • Take a moment to count how many rows you knitted with the first yarn because you’re going to knit one less row with the second yarn and the grafting at the end will make both sides even. This is why you want your second ball to have slightly more yardage, so you can match the length you got using all of the first ball and still have enough left over for grafting! So for example, I knitted 73 rounds with the Chroma, so I then knitted 72 rounds with the Malabrigo, and the grafted edge at the end counted as 73.

  

  Reversible cowl in progress

  • When you’ve knitted the right amount of rows with the second yarn, you’re ready to begin finishing!
  • First you will need to rip out your provisional cast on and put those live stitches onto an extra set of 24″ US size 8 circular needles.
  • Next, pull the second yarn work down inside of the first yarn work, so their respective wrong sides are facing. Straighten the fabric so it is smooth and the stitches on both sets of needles are lined up.
  • With a yarn needle and a length of yarn at least 3x the circumference of your cowl, graft the ends together.
  • Weave any ends between the two fabrics, and you’re done!

  
  A provisional cast on and grafting at the end are the secret ingredients to making this seamless, reversible cowl!